Louis Heels and Social Division In the early 1700s, elaborate heels decorated with miniature battle scenes could be seen, worn by France's King Louis XIV (The Sun King). Called “Louis heels,” they were often as tall as five inches. The king proclaimed that only aristocracies could wear heels that were colored les talons rogue (red) and that his heels would stack over everyone else. The king decreed that no one could have heels that were higher than his 5 inch heels. Over the period of the century, the heel became longer and more slender and society impact caused the heel to be intertwined with the idea of eroticism of foot fetishism and of the footwear itself. This fetish established itself through various media such as literature, art and fashion. During the Rococo era, heels evolved from its' decorative and ornamental flair to become higher and more slender, which accompanied the graceful feminine court manner. Moreover, author Restif de Bretonne emitted erotic emphasis on the delicate arched foot and the intricate curve of the heel. As a result, women bundled their feet to shrink their obvious size. |
King Louis XIV of France
(Source: luxury-insider.com) |
Louis heels
(Source: lifefrommyheight.blogspot.com) |
The New World Heels, like corsets, were used to shape the body to give the illusion of an aristocratic, wholesome, subtle and desirable quality. In many parts of Europe, there was a significant emphasis put on the sexuality that comes with the wearer of the heel. This was noted in the New World, where the eroticism of heels was not seen as a positive influence within their society. The Puritans of the Massachusetts Colony passed a law that banned women who used footwear as an entrapment and seduction of men, or they would be tried for witchcraft. However, the attitudes towards women's fashion gradually improved in the States, but not until later during the mid-19th century that trends would catch up with Europe.
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French Revolution and the Banishment of High Heels The French Revolution saw to the disappearance of high heels. During this period, high heels became associated with the rich and wealthy. In consequence, most people wished to avoid any note of luxury and opulence, which single handedly eliminated the high heel trend from the market for both men and women. Napoleon had banished the "Louis" heels in an attempt to push for equality. With this code, the trend disappeared altogether during the French Revolution. The aristocratic within the society was opting for low and flat heels, which came with the recession of the economy and the state of bankruptcy, for a change in simpler style. However, despite the Napoleonic Code that stood against high heels, Marie Antoinette wore two inch heels to the guillotine where she was executed for treason against her nation.
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The French Revolution
(Source: payingattentiontothesky.com) |
Impact on Heels In the wake of the French Revolution, heels became lower than any time in the 18th century. It was reduced to no more than just a wedge or replaced by a spring heel, a single layer of leather inserted just above the sole at the back of the shoe. These fragile shoes were worn with ribbons to tie around the ankle, similar to the classic Roman sandal. Heeled shoes did not make a come-back until the mid 19th Century. The Victorian era is famed for it's dancing, and as such, the functionality of flatter, ballet-style pumps was more preferable. The mule style slipper also became popular, with an open heel, and enclosed front. These later evolved into a style incorporating ankle coverings, which would shield the foot, from typical English weather. By the time heels resurfaced in the late 1800s, they were almost exclusively worn by women, and no longer suited for both genders. From this time to the 1920s, there were four main type of heels that Western women wore: the knock-on, stacked, spring, and the re-emergence of the Louis.
By Primporn Piboolnuruk and Napat Nutchanart
References
"Dangerous Elegance – A History of High-Heeled Shoes." Random History. 2012. Web. 9 November 2012. <http://www.randomhistory.com/1- 50/036heels.html>. “The History of High Heels.” April 10, 2011. Web. 11 Nov 2012. <http://fashion.lovelyish.com/725119983/the-history-of-high-heels/>. McKean, Melissa. “High-Heel Shoes History.” eHow.com. 2012. Web. 11 Nov 2012. <http://www.ehow.com/about_5374930_highheel-shoes- history.html>. Callow, Lisa. "A Well Heeled History: Stiletto Shoes." September 1 2010. Web. 14 November 2012. <http://suite101.com/article/a-well-heeled-history- stiletto-shoes-a283370>. |
Photo Sources
Quek, Eugene. "Insider's Picks: 13 Outrageous Heels." Luxury Insider. October 2011. Web. 15 November 2012.<http://www.luxury-insider.com/features /2011/insiders-picks-13-outrageous-heels>. Woodward, Jennifer. "Original Baby Louise heels - King Louis XIV, the baby Louis heel." 1 July 2011. Web. 15 November 2012 <http://lifefrommy height.blogspot.com/>. Dawson, Christopher. "The French Revolution and Catholicism in the 18th Century." July 11 2011. Web. 15 November 2012. <http://payingattentiontothesky.com/ 2011/07/11/the-french-revolution-and-catholicism-in-the-18th-century-by- christopher-dawson/>. |
“Ballerina Heels.” 28 March 2010. Web. 17 November 2012. <http://lalabohang.wordpress.com/tag/high-heels/>. “Napoleon Bonaparte.” [n.d.]. Web. 17 November 2012. <http://knarf.english.upenn.edu/People/napoleon.html>. “J'adore Dior.” 26 January 2011. Web. 17 November 2012. <http://www.boulevarddelamadeleine.com/2011/01/jadore-dior.html>. |
© This website is part of Online Information Searching and Communication Class
Semester 1 Academic Year 2012
Faculty of Arts, Chulalongkorn University
Semester 1 Academic Year 2012
Faculty of Arts, Chulalongkorn University